How bad service can be good branding

There’s a teeny tiny Michelin-starred restaurant in Chicago called Schwa that has unforgettable food. It also has a reputation for bad (or perhaps we’ll call it…sparse?) customer service that actually benefits it.

Let me break that down:

• The food is incredible.

• When I went in 2013, the interior had nothing on the walls. It was just 8 tables and pendant lights.

• There is no designated service staff. Food is served by the chefs who cook it.

• The staff rarely answers the phone. Sometimes they answer and then hang up on you. For years, if you wanted a reservation, you had to know someone or get lucky calling at the right time.

• If you arrive early for your reservation, you will be asked to leave and come back when it’s time for your reservation, even though tables are open. There is no waiting area inside the restaurant.

• It’s BYOB and you’re supposed to bring some booze for the back of house, and you’re also just supposed to know this.

• Usually there’s hip hop or metal blaring in the dining room (not what you might expect for fine dining).

I can't say for sure, but I have doubts that Chef Michael Carlson hired a brand strategist. Still, he’s got a brand (and an effective one) for sure. If I could sum it up, it would be:

🧑‍🍳 deeply dedicated to craft

🤝 egalitarian

🎸 metal

The clash of impeccable food with dgaf service, the sparseness of the space, and the spotlight-shy chef all contribute to the mythology of the place. And what is a brand if not a story — a myth.

Good branding is decisive. It knows what it is and what it isn’t.

Schwa is not a maitre’d taking your coat. It is not about being spoiled with attention. It is the experience of eating incredible food served by the people who made it while listening to great music. And because it knows itself so well, Schwa has a memorable, effective, and insanely delicious brand.